Also, I’d add: eating out in Lisbon today is more expensive than eating in Spain or Italy. Grocery shopping at Pingo Doce is so expensive compared even to Italian Coop in the rich northeast that I can’t believe it - I can compare my grocery bills from 2018 Lisbon, and weep.
When I visited Lisboa for business in about June last year (walking from Entrecampos train station for about twenty minutes to my client's offices), I noticed a lot more homeless people too. After my meeting, I was looking for just the kind of "prato do dia" restaurant you mention, and could not find one. I ended up going to Pingo Doce supermarket. They at least still sell a lunch of traditional Portuguese food, but without the ambience.
like or not the tile work is amazing. the hills still have to be climbed. its right on waters edge, of the Targus. You can take a subway straight from the airport to the water’s edge.
I have only been there once, visiting Casa Pessoa. And thought it terribly charming.
I’m glad that it still holds some charm, and I do get that it’s pretty and warm and everything. But for Lisboetas, the charm and familiarity are fading, and many are feeling left behind by their own city.
I feel the same way about certain areas of Manhattan now that its all pretty much gentrified… but I also love expansion of parks, and squares where people accumulate, are stunning in their diversity, loud and cocky, as ever.
Lisbon reminds me of Pessoa… because he is one of my fave writers, I wonder where his office was? He worked as a translator for a business firm, had a key to the office even.
His silhouette on the wall in the airport. Made me smile.
I was in Porto a few weeks ago. Came out of S Bento (eventually, with the obras em frente), pouring with rain, and the praça and rua das flores were FULL. I was so depressed. Had to get a cab later on and the driver told us that it was quieter than usual. I was stunned. (Porto is the reason I live in Portugal, and one of the reasons I want to move north)
I only go to Porto in the late autumn/ winter and its now normally because I have to & we only live 30 mins away 😓I won’t comment on Lisboa it will turn into a depressing book
If you think Lisboa has been turned/destroyed into a fucking Instagram selfie theme park for narcissists…. try Sintra.
Yeah…. I avoid it like the plague
Also, I’d add: eating out in Lisbon today is more expensive than eating in Spain or Italy. Grocery shopping at Pingo Doce is so expensive compared even to Italian Coop in the rich northeast that I can’t believe it - I can compare my grocery bills from 2018 Lisbon, and weep.
Totally!
When I visited Lisboa for business in about June last year (walking from Entrecampos train station for about twenty minutes to my client's offices), I noticed a lot more homeless people too. After my meeting, I was looking for just the kind of "prato do dia" restaurant you mention, and could not find one. I ended up going to Pingo Doce supermarket. They at least still sell a lunch of traditional Portuguese food, but without the ambience.
This seems to be the fate of capital cities though. Edinburgh, London, Dublin (and I'm sure others) - tourists everywhere, expensive etc. etc,
Fraid so. I just hoped that, as we were late to the party, it wouldn’t happen here.
like or not the tile work is amazing. the hills still have to be climbed. its right on waters edge, of the Targus. You can take a subway straight from the airport to the water’s edge.
I have only been there once, visiting Casa Pessoa. And thought it terribly charming.
I’m glad that it still holds some charm, and I do get that it’s pretty and warm and everything. But for Lisboetas, the charm and familiarity are fading, and many are feeling left behind by their own city.
I feel the same way about certain areas of Manhattan now that its all pretty much gentrified… but I also love expansion of parks, and squares where people accumulate, are stunning in their diversity, loud and cocky, as ever.
Lisbon reminds me of Pessoa… because he is one of my fave writers, I wonder where his office was? He worked as a translator for a business firm, had a key to the office even.
His silhouette on the wall in the airport. Made me smile.
Everything looking generic? Slowly happening to my hometown now, but I hope the ornery folk keep it a bit natural over the years.
It’s kind of been sanded down, polished. And the new stuff ain’t for locals any more.
I’ve been reading about it. It’s sad, watching the personality fade.
I was in Porto a few weeks ago. Came out of S Bento (eventually, with the obras em frente), pouring with rain, and the praça and rua das flores were FULL. I was so depressed. Had to get a cab later on and the driver told us that it was quieter than usual. I was stunned. (Porto is the reason I live in Portugal, and one of the reasons I want to move north)
I only go to Porto in the late autumn/ winter and its now normally because I have to & we only live 30 mins away 😓I won’t comment on Lisboa it will turn into a depressing book
I will escape the terrible south one day!! ;)
Pois….